The Fish Fry Below Table Rock Dam

Branson's shows let out at nine-thirty. By ten the choice is bed or somewhere that doesn't require a ticket. The White River Fish House below Table Rock Dam captures the Ozarks at their most convivial — trout pulled from the cold tailwaters, fried, grilled, or smoked with a freshness landlocked fish rarely achieves.

The deck overlooks Taneycomo. Herons fishing below the dam provide the floor show. Beer is local — Mother's Brewing from Springfield, Piney River from the Ozarks. The crowd is fishermen, families, and people pleasantly exhausted from an afternoon on the lake.

After dinner, drive to the Table Rock Dam overlook. Dam lights reflect on the tailwater, and on clear nights the Ozark sky delivers stars city dwellers have forgotten exist. Branson's best show has no marquee.